The past couple years have been dominated not only in sales but also in obsession over Tudor watches. Whether it be a dress watch, a chronograph, or a diver, it's no secret that people love this brand. It also isn't a secret then that to get into Tudor you need to be willing to put down thousands of dollars. Nothing popular goes uncopied, and today we're going to take a look at a watch that not only emulates the look but also emulates the feel of Tudor Black Bay 36, a watch known for being both versatile and wearable by any wrist size. Enter the $90 Watchdives WD1970s.
Heritage
The brand in question today, Watchdives, exists in two different worlds: they are both a manufacturer of watches and a dealer for many Chinese brands. As a dealer, they supply the world with a simple storefront containing watches from the likes of San Martin, Cronos, Addiesdive, and many more. As a manufacturer they create products, often faithful homages, that offer great looks and wonderful value for money. While not in the common eye, those familiar with homage brands will probably know Watchdives. An interesting note is that they have directly collaborated with San Martin to create multiple models that have sold fairly well. Well they are reputable, they are an extremely young company, and not a well-known one either.
Value
It would be unfair to compare this WD1970s to its inspiration in the Tudor Black Bay 36, as it is less than 2.5% the price. For $90, you get an adequate bracelet, well finished 316L stainless steel case, a Seiko Mecha-Quartz movement, mineral glass, and the coveted Tudor look. That puts this model in a sort of in-between. Big brand Japanese companies with charge significantly more, perhaps $150 to $200, but their competition in Chinese brands is simply so strong. Even Addiesdive, who Watchdives sell on their own site, have models with similar specifications for around $60. For an example, take a look at the Addiesdive AD2030. All things said it would simply be untrue to say this is bad value, but it isn't the best that we have seen from the segment.
Case
The case here is the classic black bay look, and Watchdives does not try to hide this inspiration. Most obviously the case has very strong slab sides, referring to the completely flat sides of the case. This gives it a very distinct tool watch aesthetic. What adds on to that is the finishing. With almost every surface brushed, it gives off a tough appearance. Straying from its inspiration, even the bezel is brushed whereas it is polished on the original. Find closer inspection. However, you will notice that it dances with the light in a way that a fully brushed case could never. There is a well-defined chamfer to almost every surface , which are all highly polished. The separation between the finishing is crisp and clean, and there really isn't anything to complain about. Well, almost nothing. A mineral glass crystal adorns the front of the case, which is a bit of a disappointment, but isn't out of the ordinary for the price. Turning the watch over, you will see nothing special. Guarding the movement is a simple screw-down sterile case back.
Dial and Hands
Underneath the mineral crystal is a familiar face: with a deep blue sunburst dial, and the traditional Tudor snowflake hands, the dial is everything you want it to be. A black dial and a light blue dial exist as well, but the dark blue dial works perfectly. In direct light, you may not even realize that a sunburst finish has been applied, but when angles are made and shadows are cast, the dial transforms and shows off the sunburst finish. The military specified our markers are clean and legible with steel detailing. The hands are classic Tudor design, with large loom sections adorned by steel outer edges.
Above the pinion, the Watchdives logo is printed, which specifically works well on a Tudor watch, seeing as it is a shield. Below the pinion lies the soul words "100m" printed. Without any other text, the water resistance rating not only looks a little lonely, but also isn't centered. It almost appears as if they were going to write something above it and then didn't.
Lume
I stayed for both the hour markers and hands are full of lume. Fortunately for us, this loom is none other than BGW9- material known for its performance. It also helps that it glows a bright blue, which is fitting for this blue dial variant. And usage of the lume works well, and lasts a moderate amount of time. This is better than expected for the price and style of this watch.
Movement
A detriment to some and a positive to others, the heart of this watch is the Seiko VH31. What does this mean? The VH31 is a Seiko quartz movement that intends to mimic the look of a mechanical movement by sweeping its second hand. The second hand takes four times per second, and you wouldn't know it wasn't mechanical at a glance. Sweeping second hand does have a toll though, you have to change the battery about every 2 years. For a watch in this price range, I don't mind this movement at all, but the mechanical-only crowd may want to look elsewhere.
Bracelet or Strap
The included bracelet is on par for the price. It has solid links, which makes it better than many of the cheap seikos, and it does have a partially milled clasp. While we're on the clasp, there are a full five levels of micro adjustment, so there should be no worries about fitting this to your wrist. It is ever so slightly a hair-puller, but this is once again almost expected for the price range. Unfortunately this model is fitted with a 19 mm lug width. This slightly off-width size means that you're unlikely to already have a strap for it. This is unfortunate because the design of the case lends itself towards changing the strap around every now and then.
Fit
If you're worried about 36 mm as a diameter measurement for a watch, no need. Unless you have quite a large wrist, this will look good. Even if 36 mm is usually too small for you, the slab sides, slightly large thickness, and tool aesthetic here means that it wears slightly larger than you would expect. The very compact lug to lug measurement also ensures that smaller wristed folks won't have a problem with this overhanging their wrist. On my 7-in wrist it looks more than at home.
Versatility
Perhaps the shining characteristic of the original Black Bay 36 design is its ability to be worn in any environment. It is sporty enough to wear casually, rugged enough to not worry about, and conservative enough to dress up a bit. All of these have been preserved with Watchdives' homage. The only detrimental aspect is the omission of sapphire crystal, meaning you can't beat it up quite the way Tudors are able to be worn. Especially in this navy configuration, it's hard to think of an outfit that it wouldn't compliment.
Originality
The most dreaded category for any homage watch, no passes are being given in judging it's originality. Now, if you look closely, there are some slight differences between this and it's inspiration. The bezel on the original is polished, whereas it is brushed here. The second hand is marked by a square lollipop on the original, which is a circle on this model. Also, notably, the current iteration of the Black Bay 36 is on a jubilee bracelet, so technically that is different here as well, but the older models were on a three-length style like we see here. It would be hard to argue that these changes are a significant departure from Tudor's design. It is clearly a borrowed design.
Diameter: 36 mm
Lug-to-Lug: 44 mm
Lug width: 19mm
Case Material: 316L Stainless Steel
Strap: Bracelet with Fold-Over Clasp
Crystal Material: Mineral Crystal
Movement: Seiko VH31
Water Resistance: 100m
Lume: BGW9
Crown: Screw Down
Color Options: Black, Blue, Navy
Heritage: 2/10
Value: 6/10
Case: 7/10
Dial and Hands: 8/10
Lume: 7/10
Movement: 5/10
Bracelet or Strap: 6/10
Fit: 8/10
Versatility: 9/10
Originality: 1/10
WatchScore: 59/100
So what’s the verdict? The only real question to ask yourself here is whether you are okay with fully borrowed designs. If not, then you already know that you won't enjoy this watch, and you probably haven't made it this far into the article! For the rest of us, this is a clear recommendation. If you're looking for Black Bay 36 homages, you have a couple options: this model, a $300 San Martin (which is a fantastic watch, but in a different price segment), and a similarly priced Pagani Design, who are famous for bad quality control. In my eyes, you have to triple the price to get a watch that I'd recommend over this one. The only significant drawback here is the crystal material, but this is a pretty good buy even with it.
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